Saturday, January 11, 2014

StyleArc – Marni jacket

Next up is another StyleArc jacket: the Marni jacket. also a pattern that I bought last year and hadn’t sewn up. I had made a muslin for the bodice, that I remembered but that was as far as I got. Pleasant surprise when I took out the pattern from my stash: I had already altered the pattern and did an fba on the front, which I had completely forgotten. It made life easier now, as I could directly start and cut the fabric.

It’s drafted very good, I made only one change: I added a back neck facing. In hindsight I should have added that to the Marie jacket too which is also a variation on a shawl collar. It was a long time since I made a shawl collar and with the Marie jacket I felt that it was difficult to finish neatly in the back neck area. Starting this jacket I took out the Vogue sewing book to lookup the instructions for a shawl collar and immediately saw that the problem was not having a back facing. Easy to add:

Mark the depth of the facing and mark the facing of the front in the shoulder seam. At the center back make the line a short line in a 90 degree angle to the center back.

Draft a smooth line from shoulder to center back seam.

Sew the shawl collar using this facing piece. Instructions can be found in most sewing books or google “sewing shawl collar”.

The result, I also played with the alphabet of my new (!) machine. More on that machine when I know it better.

During construction I understitched most of the collar.

Trimmed the corners of the cuff to prevent bulk.

And made it a bit smaller in the waist after the first fitting. Contrary to the instructions I interfaced half of the cuffs too. That’s the only minor detail that didn’t work so well: the cuff has a split and has to be turned up to get the effect of the line drawings 3/4 length sleeve.  That made the split stand out strangely. I solved it with tacking it together with a few hand stitches. no big deal. Do you think the cuffs were intended to turned up when you see the line drawing?

For now only dressform photos, I added bra cups but on the left side it’s sticking out a bit weird, of course I only saw the when I opened them on the computer.

I’ll show the jacket when I finished the skirt, this is the fabric for it. Will be a very simple pencil skirt. It has a bit of the color of the jacket in it.

18 comments:

vivienz said...

Another lovely stylearc jacket, Sigrid. The line drawing definitely doesn't look as though the cuffs are turned up as the slit is on the bottom part. The illustration shows them turned, though, as they are in a contrast colour. Nice skirt material, too.

Jennifer C said...

Lovely jacket! It's going to look fab with the skirt fabric

becki-c said...

Why do they never include that back neck facing? It sure is nice to find patterns with the fitting already figured out, you will have a beautiful new jacket before you know it.

Vicki said...

The line drawings don't show the cuffs up. Is the fabric a ponte? Love the colour and will look lovely with the skirt.

pdiddly said...

This is really lovely - look forward to seeing you wear it with the skirt. New machine...............!?!?!?!

Art By Clare said...

Love the colour, I look forward to seeing the finished garment on you. Which machine did you get?

Art By Clare said...

Love the colour, I look forward to seeing the finished garment on you. Which machine did you get?

Art By Clare said...

Love the colour, I look forward to seeing the finished garment on you. Which machine did you get?

Carole Mellin said...

Very stylish!

Nancy K said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Nancy K said...

It's a great jacket and adding the back neck facing gives it a nice finish. I have this pattern and it's definitely time I made it. It's going to look great with your skirt fabric.
Did you get the Pfaff?

Sherry Baker said...

Nice jacket, love the color and the skirt with it is going to be beautiful! I have tried a shawl collar with no luck. I'll have look up to see how to add back facing. Thanks for the tip. I like the look of a shawl collar and hope I can learn how to sew them.

Tia Dia said...

What a nice jacket! The lines are so pleasing and the colour is wonderful.

Bunny said...

Lovely jacket and the color is one that looks so good on you. It will be lovely with the skirt.

meli88a said...

Very nice jacket... I agree with you, the cuffs can be turned up. While the line drawing shows a split cuff, it looks like on the model it is folded up.

Jean said...

What a beautiful jacket! The color is stunning. As others have commented, the line drawing definitely doesn't look like the cuffs are turned up, but the illustration does. I'm sure it can be worn both ways. I recently made a shawl collar jacket and the back neck facing was helpful to have. Can you share some ideas for how you like to tack down the facing in the jacket? Do you hand-tack to the shoulder seams?

Kristy said...

I love the colour of your jacket, just gorgeous. I've made one Marnie jacket from a ponte and ended up lining it because I didn't like the visible seams inside and I feel it wears better too, it also solves the problem of the back facing. I always wear mine with cuffs folded up.

Nothy Lane said...

I love your Marni jacket. I've been eyeing this pattern for awhile but now I am definitely getting it. Your jacket is beautiful - and great colour too.